ÿþ<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>PA&#7788I&#256L&#256 (30º-20'N, 76º-26'E)</TITLE> <style type="text/css"> .BODY { background-color: #EAF1F7; background-image: url('images/gtbh.jpg'); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-attachment: fixed; background-position: center; color: #0066CC;} .C1{text-align: justify;color: #0066CC;FONT-size: SMALL;FONT-family: Tahoma;} .BIB{text-align: center;color: #000099;FONT-size: SMALL;FONT-family: Tahoma;} .CONT{text-align: right;color: #FF0000;FONT-size: SMALL;FONT-family: Tahoma;} </style><META NAME="keywords" CONTENT="PAlIL"> <META http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></HEAD> <BODY class="BODY" oncontextmenu="return false" ondragstart="return false" onselectstart="return false"> <FONT ALIGN="JUSTIFY" FACE="Tahoma"> <p class="C1">&#65279PA&#7788I&#256L&#256 (30º-20'N, 76º-26'E), a district town of the Punjab, was formerly the capital of a princely Sikh state until it lapsed in 1948. Though only the fourth largest town of the Punjab with a modest population, 268,521 (1991), Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 boasts a well-marked cultural tradition. Historically, the city is not very old. It was founded only in 1752 by B&#257b&#257 &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh (1691-1765), the founder of the Ph&#363lk&#299&#257&#7749 house of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257. The site was the ruined mound, Pa&#7789&#257&#7749v&#257l&#257 Theh, of an earlier habitation, from which the name 'Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257' is said to be derived. &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh had begun to rule only over 30 villages around Barn&#257l&#257 but had become, by the middle of the eighteenth century, undisputed master of considerable territory to the east of that town. In 1753 he forced the Khokhar chief of the <i>parganah</i> of Sanaur to cede to him the <i>chaur&#257s&#299</i>, a group of 84 villages including the Pa&#7789&#257&#7749v&#257l&#257 Theh. &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh at first made a <i>kachch&#299 ga&#7771h&#299</i> (mud fortress) near the present Fort at the site, later known as <i>So&#7693h&#299&#257&#7749 d&#299 Ga&#7771h&#299</i>, the fortress of the So&#7693h&#299 clan. The foundation of the Fort, the present Qil&#257 Mub&#257rak, was laid in 1763, when &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh also shifted his principal seat here. The place then became known as Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; B&#257b&#257 &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh died in 1765 and was succeeded by his grandson, Amar Si&#7749gh, who received the title of R&#257j&#257-i- R&#257jgan from Ahmad Sh&#257h Durr&#257n&#299. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 made steady progress under R&#257j&#257 Amar Si&#7749gh and his successors. R&#257j&#257 Karam Si&#7749gh (ruled 1813-45) reconstructed the Saif&#257b&#257d Fort, already conquered by R&#257j&#257 Amar Si&#7749gh and renamed it Bah&#257durga&#7771h after Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur, who had visited here a century earlier. The next ruler, R&#257j&#257 Narinder Si&#7749gh (ruled1845-62) made the greatest contribution towards the development of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 town. He built Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> Palace, designed on the pattern of Sh&#257l&#257m&#257r of Lahore with terraces, fountains, canals and the Sh&#299sh Mahal (lit. glass palace). Its foundation was laid in 1847 and it was completed at a cost of five lakhs of Rupees. He also built the famous Nirmal&#257 centre, Dhararn Dhuj&#257, also called Nirmal Pañch&#257it&#299 Akh&#257&#7771&#257, and the <i>sam&#257dh</i> of B&#257b&#257 &#256l&#257 Si&#7749gh. The ten gates and ramparts of the city were also built by him. The name of Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Mohinder Si&#7749gh who ruled the state from 1862 to 1876 is celebrated by Mohindr&#257 College established in 1870. Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 R&#257jinder Si&#7749gh (ruled 1876-1900) raised the B&#257r&#257dar&#299 Palace and Garden as his residence. His successor, Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Bh&#363pinder Si&#7749gh (1891-1938), however, shifted back to Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> Palace. The last ruling prince, Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Y&#257davinder Si&#7749gh built the New Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> Palace near the old one, and also added many other buildings such as the Y&#257davindr&#257 Stadium, State Bank of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257, the Army Headquarters, the Soldiers' Club and the Gymkh&#257n&#257 Club. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 also has a flying club.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Two historical shrines commemorate the visit of the holy Gur&#363, Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur, N&#257nak IX :</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;GURDW&#256R&#256 D&#362KH NIV&#256RAN S&#256HIB is situated in what used to be the village of Lehal, now part of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 city. According to local tradition, supported by an old hand written document preserved in the Gurdw&#257r&#257, one Bh&#257g R&#257m, a <i>jhiv&#257r</i> of Lehal, waited upon Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur during his sojourn at Saif&#257b&#257d (now Bah&#257durga&#7771h), and made the request that he might be pleased to visit and bless his village so that its inhabitants could be rid of a serious and mysterious sickness which had been their bane for a long time. The Gur&#363 visited Lehal on Magh <i>sud&#299</i> 5, 1728 Bk/24 January 1672 and stayed under a banyan tree by the side of a pond. The sickness in the village subsided. The site where Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur had sat came to be known as D&#363kh Niv&#257ran, literally meaning eradicator of suffering. Devotees have faith in the healing qualities of water in the <i>sarovar</i> attached to the shrine known as Gurdw&#257r&#257 D&#363kh Niv&#257ran S&#257hib.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; R&#257j&#257 Amar Si&#7749gh of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 (1748-82) had a garden laid out on the site as a memorial which he entrusted to Niha&#7749g Sikhs. Records of a court case in 1870 mention a Gur&#363's garden and a Niha&#7749gs' well being in existence here. In 1920, during a survey for the proposed construction of Sirhind-Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257-J&#257khal railway line, it appeared that the banyan tree under which had sat Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur would have to be removed. But men charged with felling it refused to touch it. Ultimately, Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Bh&#363pinder Si&#7749gh ordered cancellation of the entire project. No <i>gurdw&#257r&#257</i> building had, however, been raised. It was only in 1930 that a committee was formed to collect funds and commence construction. The Gurdw&#257r&#257 when completed passed under the administrative control of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 state government. It was later transferred to the Dharam Arth Board of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 and East Punjab States Union and eventually to the Shiroma&#7751&#299 Gurdw&#257r&#257 Parbandhak Committee.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The building complex sprawls over several acres. The two-storeyed gateway has a collapsible iron gate and black and white marble floor. On the left of the pathway leading to the principal building is a small marble shrine marking the site where Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur had sat under the banyan tree. The central two storeyed building, with a domed pavilion on top, is on a raised base having an octagonal domed chamber at each corner. The pinnacled lotus dome on top has around sun window on each side with a curved coping, projected horizontally at the ends. There are decorative domed pavilions at the corners and lotus blossoms-in-leaf in the middle on top of the walls. The interior is paved with marble slabs in white and grey against black and white of the outer platform. The walls and pillars are also panelled with white marble slabs. The ceiling is decorated with stucco work in floral design. The Gur&#363 Granth S&#257hib is seated under a square canopy at the far end. The 75-metre square <i>sarovar</i>, since considerably extended, is on the right and Gur&#363 k&#257 La&#7749gar on the left as one enters. The Gurdw&#257r&#257 is administered by the Shiroma&#7751&#299 Gurdw&#257r&#257 Parbandhak Committee. A big gathering is held on the fifth day of the light half of each lunar month. The festival of the year is Basant Pañchm&#299 which marks the day of Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur's visit.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>GURDW&#256R&#256 MOT&#298B&#256<u>GH</u></i> is situated near the Old Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> Palace, former residence of the rulers of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257. According to Sikh tradition, Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur, during his journey to Delhi for his supreme sacrifice, stayed here a while, in 1675. It was then jungle country and no memorial was raised until Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Narinder Si&#7749gh of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 (1823-62), who had already built the Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> Palace, constructed this Gurdw&#257r&#257 in 1852. The building stands on a high plinth and is approached by a flight of marble topped steps leading to a porch on top of the base. The sanctum is a square room with a verandah around it. It has four doors, one on each side, but three of them are closed with screens of perforated red stone slabs. The one open door has a white marble frame and wooden leaves covered with beautifully carved brass sheets. The interior walls and the ceiling are richly decorated with filigree work and inset multi-coloured glass pieces. On the first floor is a square room with a pinnacled lotus dome on top. For administration, the shrine is affiliated to Gurdw&#257r&#257 D&#363kh Niv&#257ran S&#257hib. Special religious gatherings and Gur&#363 k&#257 La&#7749gar mark the anniversaries of the birth and martyrdom day of Gur&#363 Te<u>gh</u> Bah&#257dur. On the latter occasion, a largely attended procession is led out from here. Marching through the city street, it ends at Gurdw&#257r&#257 D&#363kh Niv&#257ran S&#257hib. Extensive renovations have been carried out recently.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Towards the end of the eighteenth century writers such as Kesho D&#257s and Bhagv&#257n Si&#7749gh were attracted to Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 where they applied themselves to preparing a history of the House of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257, composed ballads celebrating contemporary events and wrote books on the lives and philosophy of the Gur&#363s.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The renowned historian, Bh&#257&#299 Santokh Si&#7749gh, too, had come to settle at Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 in 1823, though Bh&#257&#299 Udai Si&#7749gh of Kaithal "borrowed" his services from R&#257j&#257 Karam Si&#7749gh. One Bh&#257&#299 Nih&#257l wrote the story of the lives and exploits of the House of Ph&#363l. The famous Nirmal&#257 scholar Pa&#7751&#7693it T&#257r&#257 Si&#7749gh Narotam, who, besides writing several books on religious philosophy, compiled a catalogue of historical Sikh shrines, enjoyed the respects and patronage of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 rulers. Gi&#257n&#299 Gi&#257n Si&#7749gh wrote his book on Sikh history while in residence at Gurdw&#257r&#257 Mot&#299b&#257<u>gh</u> here. Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Bh&#363pinder Si&#7749gh established a regular historical research department under Sard&#257r Karam Si&#7749gh. He also made Punjabi the court language in his state. Bh&#257&#299 K&#257hn Si&#7749gh's voluminous <i>Gurushabad Ratan&#257kar Mah&#257n Kosh</i> (an encyclopaedia of Sikh literature) was published by the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 Darb&#257r in 1950. At partition some celebrated Sikh scholars and savants such as B&#257b&#257 Prem Si&#7749gh Hot&#299 and Sant Sa&#7749gat Si&#7749gh of Kam&#257li&#257 chose to come to Pati&#257l&#257 and make it their permanent home. Also settled here was Dr Ga&#7751&#7693&#257 Si&#7749gh. He was Director of Archives in Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 government. Much of Professor S&#257hib Si&#7749gh's scholarly work was accomplished here, too.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Consequent upon the partition of the country in 1947, the Government of India's share of the Punjab Civil Secretariat Record Office, Lahore, became part of the East Punjab's Archives. These together with the records of PEPSU are now housed in B&#257r&#257dar&#299 Palace and Reference Section of the Central Public Library at Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257. They constitute a mine of information regarding <u>Kh</u>&#257ls&#257 Darb&#257r, Lahore, Mu<u>gh</u>al S&#363bah of Delhi and Divisional administration of Amb&#257l&#257, Hiss&#257r and Old Delhi. It contains records of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 and East Punjab States Union which formed Part B state of the Union of India in 1948 until its amalgamation with the Punjab in 1956.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Among the educational establishments in Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 may be counted the Punjabi University and Th&#257par Institute of Engineering and Technology, besides several degree and post-degree colleges including medical colleges of different systems of medicine and a college for women. Mohindr&#257 College, established in 1870, was for long the only University college west of Calcutta. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 was also the only city between Delhi and Lahore where the first printing press, Munsh&#299 Nawal Kishore Printing Press, was established during the 1870's. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257's contribution to the promotion of Punjabi language is noteworthy. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 took the lead in adopting Punjabi as the official language. This meant an immense boost for Punjabi language and literature. The first Punjabi typewriter was also manufactured under the patronage provided by Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 state.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; With the establishment of the National Institute of Sports at Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 the town could legitimately claim to have become the sports capital of India. But its contribution to sports in the past, too, has been noteworthy. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 even among the Indian princely states was a leading centre of sports in the country. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 rulers were famous for their love of sports. Among the traditional Indian sports wrestling used to be the most popular. The Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 court patronized many who distinguished themselves in this field. Most famous of them was <u>Gh</u>ul&#257m Muhammad, popularly known as G&#257m&#257&#7749 Pahalv&#257n, who for many years held titles of Rustam-i-Hind (champion wrestler of India) and even Rustam-i-Zam&#257&#7749 (world champion). Later, G&#257m&#257&#7749's younger brother, lm&#257m Ba<u>kh</u>sh, also joined the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 state and won many laurels. Another Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 wrestler was Kesar Si&#7749gh who also won the title of Rustam-i-Hind and won a bronze medal in Olympic Games in 1952, the first ever and till 1996 the only individual Olympic medal won by an Indian. Ba<u>kh</u>sh&#299sh Si&#7749gh of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 also represented India in wrestling in the Melbourne Olympics of 1956.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It was during the reign of Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 R&#257jinder Si&#7749gh that Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 started its great tradition in modern sports, particularly cricket. He invited some professional cricketers from Britain to Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 to coach young Indians in the game. Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Bh&#363pinder Si&#7749gh and his son Y&#257davinder Si&#7749gh themselves were keen cricketers. The young prince led an Indian team to England when he was barely 19. He captained an Indian XI in 1935. He became president of the Indian Olympic Association in 1939 and continued in that office till 1960, when he was succeeded in that office by his younger brother, R&#257j&#257 Bh&#257lendra Si&#7749gh. A young Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 army officer, Dal&#299p Si&#7749gh, who later became a Brigadier in the Indian army, was the first Indian athlete to represent India in Olympic games. That was in Paris in 1924. Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Y&#257davinder Si&#7749gh had the Y&#257davindra Stadium constructed in 1941. This was the first cinder track stadium in India. Another more modern stadium came up in the Punjabi University campus during the early 1970's.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Polo was introduced in Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 by Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 R&#257jinder Si&#7749gh in 1890. Soon, Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 became internationally known for excellence in this sport. Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 produced many famous players of whom General Chand&#257 Si&#7749gh-was the most renowned. He distinguished himself in India as well as abroad. In 1909 he won championships in England and France. Spain specially invited him to play for their team. The Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 team won the Ratl&#257m Cup in 1923. It went to England the following year where it won the famous Coronation Cup.</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 state also made itself famous in music. A school of music known as Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 <i>ghar&#257n&#257</i> became very popular. Although times have changed, it still holds sway in this part of the world. After the disintegration of the Mu<u>gh</u>al court in Delhi in the wake of the 1857 uprising, many old artists had to seek employment elsewhere. Among those who were attracted to the court of Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 Narinder Si&#7749gh of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257, who was a great lover of classical music, was the famous musician of the Mu<u>gh</u>al court, Ust&#257d T&#257n-Ras <u>Kh</u>&#257n "Qaw&#257l Bachch&#257". His pupils at Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 included Bh&#257&#299 Kall&#363 Rab&#257b&#299 of the Anandpur Rab&#257b&#299 family, 'Al&#299 Ba<u>kh</u>sh and Fateh 'Al&#299. The most famous singer of this <i>ghar&#257n&#257</i> was Gok&#299 B&#257&#299, who flourished during the reign of Mah&#257r&#257j&#257 R&#257jinder Si&#7749gh (1876-1900). Ustad 'Al&#299 Ba<u>kh</u>sh's son, Ba&#7771e Ghul&#257m 'Al&#299 <u>Kh</u>&#257n, continued the tradition of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 <i>ghar&#257n&#257</i> even after the decline of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 court following the upheaval of 1947. Other well known performers of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 <i>ghar&#257n&#257</i> were Ust&#257d Munawwar <u>Kh</u>&#257n Sara&#7749g&#299 Niw&#257z and his two sons, Ch&#257nd <u>Kh</u>&#257n and Ramz&#257n <u>Kh</u>&#257n of Delhi. The famous performers of <i>k&#299rtan</i>, the Sikh devotional music, Bh&#257&#299 Ch&#257nd and Bh&#257&#299 L&#257l also belonged to Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257. One of the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 princes, Ka&#7749var Mrigendra Si&#7749gh, was himself a noted musician. According to him "it will be no exaggeration to say that today the whole of the West Pakistan classical music is mainly based on Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 <i>ghar&#257n&#257</i>."</p> <p class="C1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The cultural pattern introduced by Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 state carried its own flavour. This culture was not confined to the elite of the court but also percolated to the common people. The average Pa&#7789i&#257lv&#299 developed, like the Lakhnav&#299s, greater consciousness of his personal bearing than any other people in the region. For example, the Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 Sikhs have a particular style of rolling their beards and tying their turbans. Things have changed after the migrations of 1947, but the cultural stamp of Pa&#7789i&#257l&#257 remains intact. A migrant to Pakistan, Fazl-i-Ham&#299d, Deputy Director, Bureau of Reconstruction, Government of Pakistan, in his letter dated Lahore, 30 January 1965, provides interesting testimony. He writes : "In the Patiala State over the centuries, we Muslims, Sikhs and Hindus had lived happily together and developed traditions, cultural outlook and a way of life of our own which had the unmistakable stamp of Patiala... The Patiala tradition was based on tolerance, fellow-feeling, gentlemanliness and catholicity. I hope we Patialvis will dedicate ourselves to the ideals of peace and humanity wherever we happen to be."</p> </font> <p class="BIB"> BIBLIOGRAPHY<p class="C1"><ol class="C1"><li class="C1"> Punjabi University, <i>Patiala and Its Historical Surroundings</i>. Patiala,1969<BR> <li class="C1"> Phulkian States Gazetteers<BR> <li class="C1"> K&#257hn Si&#7749gh, <i>Gurushabad Ratan&#257kar Mah&#257n Kosh</i>. Patiala, 1981<BR> <li class="C1"> Gi&#257n Si&#7749gh, Gi&#257n&#299, <i>Tw&#257ri<u>kh</u> Gurdu&#257ri&#257&#7749</i>. Amritsar, n.d.<BR> <li class="C1"> Narotam, T&#257r&#257 Si&#7749gh, <i>Sr&#299 Guru T&#299rath Sa&#7749grahi</i>. Kankhal,1975<BR> <li class="C1"> Sahi, J.S., <i>Sikh Shrines in India and Abroad</i>. Faridabad, 1978<BR> <li class="C1"> Mehar Singh, <i>Sikh Shrines in India</i>. Delhi, 1975<BR> </ol><p class="CONT">Sard&#257r Si&#7749gh Bh&#257&#7789&#299&#257<br></p><BR> </font><img src="counter.aspx" width="1px" height="1px" alt=""></HTML></BODY>